Chandigarh has been voted the happiest city in India. It has the nation’s highest per capita income and is one of its most popular tourist attractions. It houses a Unesco World Heritage site and is sometimes called “The City Beautiful”. And it can be very confusing to find your way around.

“Where exactly are we?” I ask Ravi Modka as we drive along a street that looks very like the one we’ve just driven along – and the one before that. “This is Sector 10,” he says. 

“Opposite Sector 10 is Sector 16. We’re heading for Sector 9, and opposite that will be Sector 17.” 

There are, at the last count, 59 sectors. I need Ravi. 

Chandigarh, the capital of the states of Punjab and Haryana, was independent India’s first planned city. Seventy years ago, the country’s partition – subject of the film Viceroy’s House, released in the UK this weekend with Hugh Bonneville and Gillian Anderson as Lord and Lady Mountbatten – divided Punjab between India and Pakistan.

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