© Rohan Shivkumar

The royal island of Orchha is separated from the main village by a stream and connected with a bridge. Three palaces dominate the skyline: the Jehangir Mahal - a square like the Datia Palace - built by Bir Singh Deo, but without the central tower piece. While it is Jehangir Mahal that gets most of the footage in Orchha, the older and much more complex Raj Mahal is far more interesting. two courtyards surrounded by a variety of different spaces - from terraces and verandahs to walkways from where you can overlook the village and the temples that lie on the rest of the royal island.