| and one day we too will appreciate Dadar-Matunga architecture

Just a stone's throw from the eponymous dock at Tilbury is a town born
of shoes. It isn't on any heritage trail or way marked with tourist
signs, and the hotel no longer takes guests. Catering facilities are
limited and themed activity-centre or park-and-ride facilities have yet
to be constructed for the benefit of visitors.

For aficionados of Bauhaus design, lack of official interest enhances
the "bleak chic" qualities of an unexpected modernist treasure trove
that has largely been left to moulder in peace.

The Bata insignia on the factory roof is just discernible from a mile
away. Until you get closer, it looks quite new. "Sixty turned up to have
a look around the other day," said the security guard at the old factory
gates, "although today you're the only ones." He almost didn't let my
photographer friend Alex and me in. But eventually he capitulated,
evidently proud to be guarding a unique jewel of British and Czech
industrial history.