In the town of Hampi, India, the former capital of the Vijayanagara Empire and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the past remains very much alive. Devotees congregate at medieval-era temples; tourists from across India and the world marvel at the empire's fallen grandeur; and, up until quite recently, residents lived and worked in centuries-old stone mandapas (pavilions) lining both sides of the town's main street. The case of Hampi and its heritage illustrates a key question: do people have the right to live in historic monuments, particularly monuments that have been declared the patrimony not just of India, but of the entire world?